Autumn colour is usually at it’s most glorious at this time of year. Healthy leaves can be used as a mulch or stored in an out of the way corner and left to rot to provide valuable leaf mould.
Soil
October is a good month to use bonemeal, which acts slowly and supplies phosphates.
Lime can also be applied now but not where compost or manure has recently been applied. The herbaceous border may have bonemeal applied at 4oz per sq metre.
The soil is moist but not sodden at this time of year which can make it an ideal time for digging the soil over. Double digging is only usually required on new plots.
Vegetables
Outside
You can continue to harvest Brussels sprouts, parsnips, swede and leeks as they will survive outside without too many problems.
Store potatoes in the dark and avoid heat – best in cloth sacks or paper bags. Keep closed.
Sow early broad beans such as Aqua Dulce ready for early crops next year.
The growth of asparagus will have turned yellow and the sooner it is removed the better – cut off the tops close to the soil and fork between the plants lightly and cover the crowns with a thin layer of leaves or ash as protection against frost.
The curds of cauliflowers are likely to be damaged by frost so bend some of the outer leaves over any hearts that are forming.
Continue to blanch endives.
Garlic and onions can be stored in plaited strips in a well ventilated, frost-free place. This is also a good time to plant new garlic cloves.
Hardy herbs such as rosemary and basil can be planted now for a fresh supply of herbs through the winter months.
Plant rhubarb which is a very hardy, frost-resistant vegetable in fertile, partially shaded position.
Plant spring cabbages from August sowings.
Complete earthing up of celery and leeks
In the Greenhouse
Lift and box mint – a supply of young mint shoots is usually very welcome at Christmas and the New Year and can be obtained very easily by lifting a few roots now. Lay thinly on any fairly light compost spread in deep seed trays covering with 25mm (1”) of composts and kept in a warm greenhouse.
Fruit and Berries
Outside
Prepare sites for any new fruit trees – November is the ideal time to plant but digging now will give the ground a few weeks to settle before planting.
Dig ground to at least 600mm (24”) deep and, unless it is already rich, work in plenty of well rotted animal manure or decayed vegetable refuse but keep away from the surface.
You can store excess fruit by freezing or also consider canning or preserving.
Prune blackcurrants once the leaves have turned colour - remove a proportion of older stems right down to the ground
Gather all remaining apples and pears – wrap each apple in paper and store in boxes three or four deep. Apples prefer a slightly moist atmosphere but pears are better suited in a dry atmosphere. Pears should not be piled on top of each other and keep an eye on them as they spoil quickly.
Plant gooseberry bushes ready for a crop next summer.
In the Greenhouse
With late vines that are still carrying bunches, remove some of the foliage so that berries are exposed to the light.
Flowers and Shrubs
Outside
Roses and other deciduous shrubs can be planted now as they will have enough time to take root properly and gain some nourishment before the first frosts freeze the soil.
Ferns and grasses will be in their element as the brilliant flower show slowly recedes.
Take hardwood cuttings – many cuttings root easily at this time of year and is the cheapest way to fill your garden with tree and shrubs. Take shoots that have grown this year are pencil thickness or more.
Boost any plants left in hanging baskets with liquid feed.
Lightly cut back large bush roses to prevent autumn wind damage.
The aster can provide some of the last rays of colour in the garden.
Dahlia tubers should be taken out of the ground and leave to dry with the stalks facing downwards. Store in a dark, dry place.
Follow a similar procedure with begonias and gladioli.
Autumn is the ideal time to plant some climbing plants such as root climbers that attach themselves to walls including ivy, climbing hydrangeas and Virginia creeper.
Twining plants need support structures to attach themselves – these include honeysuckle, clematis, hops, pipevine and mile-a-minute vine. Check that the proposed location suits the desired plant.
Lift half-hardy flowering plants such as begonias, dahlias and cannas that have been growing out of doors in the summer months as soon as frost puts a stop to their display. Cut off any dead growth just above the tubers and store is trays or boxes an a dry, cool but frost-proof place.
Plant herbaceous perennials on light, well-drained soils.
Plant spring bedding such as wallflowers, polyanthuses and coloured primroses as soon as you are able to clear beds of their summer occupants.
Protect outdoor chrysanthemums if any are still flowering well. Use fine mesh netting or plastic fixed over stakes on frosty nights.
In the greenhouse
Disbud perpetual-flowering carnations – young plants rooted as cuttings in the winter should now be forming flower buds which will need to be thinned out – leave only the central terminal bud on each stem.
Pot hardy plants for indoors
Bring in flowering pot plants
Pot on cinerarias and stocks sown in June into 125mm (5”) pots.
Sow sweet peas about 5 seeds to a 75mm (3” pot) and germinate in an unheated frame.
Annuals sown in September for flowering in the greenhouse in spring should be ready for potting singly in 75mm (3”) pots.
Lawns
Scarify lawns and apply an autumn fertilizer
October is also a good time to lay new lawns from turf – cut out worn places with an edging tool and lift with a sharp spade.
Other Jobs
Prepare sites for trees and shrubs.
Plant deciduous or coniferous hedges. Prepare the soil well with plenty of organic material.
Give your compost a turn.