Whilst mowing is probably the most important job, to keep a lawn looking dense, green and springy there are a number of other things you will need to take care of including feeding and weeding and raking off debris and dead grass. Every so often you need to get air into the soil and carry out repairs to bare or dead patches.
We have listed below the main requirements of how to care for your lawn.
Watering
Grass loses its springiness and starts to discolour when it is short of water and this occurs mainly in the summer.
Water is critical for the health of your grass. Without enough water, grass can’t get the nutrients it needs for reproduction and growth. Most grasses do best with deep watering once a week rather than a light watering every day. Ideally the soil should be moistened in depth to 100mm – 150mm (4-6”) deep as shallow watering results in shallow rooting and a lawn that is more vulnerable to drought.
You can check the penetration of the water by digging a hole in an adjacent border and seeing how long it takes the water to reach this depth.
The first sign of a lack of water is the loss of springiness in the grass, followed by a change in colour from bright green to a grey-green and then to yellow or brown.
Grass has a remarkable capacity to recover and a big part of that recovery is how well a lawn is watered throughout the summer months, when drought hits the hardest.
How often to water will depend on the time of year, the soil and the lawn type but a general rule is to water once a week in normal conditions and twice a week in abnormally hot weather.
Water as soon as you notice that the grass does not spring back after being walked on. New lawns and high-quality lawns must be watered more frequently. Utility lawns can be left longer as the grasses are tougher – if they turn brown as they become dormant, they will soon recover and green up.
Lawn sprinklers are the usual method of watering but are wasteful. To maximize their effectiveness and reduce evaporation, run them in the cool of the morning or evening.
There are many methods of lawn watering from the simple watering can to a variety of sprinklers such as this one. Choose a method that suits your size of garden.
For large, high-quality lawns, consider installing pop-up sprinklers or investing in a robotic water device that moves automatically after an area is soaked.
Feeding Your Lawn
Feeding your lawn will encourage closely-knit turf in which neither weeds nor moss can establish a foothold. A starved lawn will turn a pale yellowish green and to avoid this, your lawn should be fed at least once a year with fertilizer appropriate to the time.
Spring and simmer feeds are high in nitrogen to encourage rapid, lush growth and good colour. Nitrogen runs out before the other plant foods and is essential for stimulating leaf growth.
Autumn feeds are high in phosphates which help with the production of a vigorous root system. Apply in early autumn.
If possible, try and feed your lawn when showery weather is likely as this will help carry the fertilizer down into the soil although you should not feed the lawn when it is raining.
Hand feeding – this is probably the most widely used method. Weigh the amount for 1 sq metre into a plastic cup – mark the cup and use this as a measure. Use canes to divide the lawn into 1 sq metre areas and apply half the feed in one direction and the other half at right angles to the first half.
Liquid feeds – some fertilizers are soluble and can be applied with a watering can. These are generally faster acting than granular feeds.
Mechanical Distributor – this wheeled machine (see photo above) speeds up fertilizer application and is capable of producing more even results than hand applications. They can be adjusted so that the feed is at the correct rate.
Granular feeds have a longer lasting effect but need watering in if there is no rain within 2-3 days.
Tidying edges
Cutting the edges of a lawn is easiest when the soil is moist but not wet. Lay a plank on the lawn to stand on and cut against it or use a taut length of string as a guide.
Sever the grass roots where they are spreading into the beds or border – when you have finished working in one direction, work back in the other pressing the spade or edger against the cut surface to make it firm and shiny – the trimmings can be added to the compost heap.
Repairing a broken edge.
If not repaired, a damaged edge will continue to deteriorate and like any bare patch, will provide an open invitation for weeds to establish.
Reseeding a damaged edge is rarely effective so it is better to cut out a rectangular piece of grass where the edge is damaged and turn it around so that the damaged edge is facing in. Fill in the hole with top dressing and work it into the joins to help them knot together.
If the hole is large it can be reseeded using an appropriate grass seed. Water and keep an eye on the repair until the grass has started to regrow, weeding and watering as required.
Top Dressing
Top dressing is the application of bulky material to the surface of the turf with the aim of filling minor hollows that have developed during the season and to build up an ideal soil layer over the years.
It is usually a mixture of good-quality soil, sand and a source of humus and the should be thoroughly mixed before use.
The best time to apply is in early autumn – mid September is ideal and spiking the lawn a few days before application will help.
The best tool for the job is the back of a rake and the dressing should be applied evenly overt the surface.
We have summarized below the preferred mixes for various soil types.
| Type of Soil | Peat | Loam | Sand |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heavy soil | 1 part | 2 parts | 4 parts |
| Loamy soil | 1 part | 4 parts | 2 parts |
| Sandy soil | 2 parts | 4 parts | 1 part |
Aerating
If your lawn feels hard then it has become compacted and you may need to aerate it so that the roots can breathe again.
The idea is to create holes or slits so that water and oxygen can penetrate the surface but it is a difficult job to do properly over a large area.
The surface needs to be penetrated by spikes or tines to a depth of at least 75mm (3”) but it is only necessary to do areas where compaction is obvious. Look for areas where it waterlogs after rain and areas that rapidly brown in dry weather.
A hollow tine fork is ideal for heavy soils as each tine takes out a core of earth but this should not be done more than once every three years. You may wish to hire a powered tiner for large lawns.
Spiking with a garden fork is suitable for small lawns on light soil. A spiked roller makes the job easier but penetration is not so deep.
After aerating, brush in a gritty top dressing to improve drainage and add nutrients.
Raking, Scarifying and Rolling
Raking the lawn serves different purposes at different times of year. In springtime, the use of a spring-tine rake (as above photo) will remove winter debris and break up small amounts of thatch as well as lifting the grass leaves and weed stems ready for cutting.
In late spring and summer, raking is more a process of collecting up grass clippings after mowing and vigorous raking should be avoided.
In autumn, this process will remove leaves and other debris and break up small amounts of thatch. If thatching is serious, you may have to scarify which should be carried out in early September. Removing the thatch at this stage will stimulate the development of side shoots and runners. You should apply moss killer a week or so before scarifying to any areas of moss and bare areas may need to be reseeded.
Rolling is not usually required for most residential lawns as it’s purpose is to form the surface of an already smooth lawn. It should not be used to flatten out bumps as this will cause compaction.
Rolling is only really needed if frost has lifted the turf and only a light roller should be used.
Weeds
It is rare for a lawn not to have weeds as the seeds are constantly being blown into your garden or brought in by birds.
A good lawn care regime will deal with many weeds and healthy strong-growing grass will simply crowd them out. Regular mowing of your lawn will exhaust them although mowing the lawn too short or letting it grown too long can provide an opening for weeds to grow.
Weeds will move into bare patches where the grass has been worn away or weeds have been dug out by hand and this can be prevented by reseeding.
Rake the lawn before mowing to lift up weed stems into the path of the blade and always use a grass box to prevent weeds from spreading – for very weedy lawns or difficult weeds, use a suitable weed killer or apply a weed and feed formulation in spring.
Moss in a lawn is a sign of bad growing conditions such as low fertility, compacted or poorly drained soil and shade – it is more troublesome on acid soils and autumn lawn care and spring feeding will help.
Isolated weeds can be dug out with an old kitchen knife or a special tool called a daisy grubber - cut around the plant to remove the entire tap root and reseed.
Spot weed treatments are available in gel or liquid form – used by spraying or painting but generally they do not work on grass-like weeds.
When using weedkiller, always follow the instructions exactly and do not store diluted weedkiller. Use a separate labeled watering can for liquid weedkillers and do not use on windy days as it will drift into borders.
Apply 2 or 3 days after mowing when the weeds have grown new leaves to absorb the chemicals and do not mow for a few days after treatment to allow the weedkiller to reach the roots. Do not add clippings from the next few mowings to the compost heap
Weeds types
There are many weeds that could appear in your lawn and we have listed some of the more common ones below.
Bobbie can thumbnails be enlarged by clicking on them?
| Common Name | Latin Name | Photo | Type | Treatment |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| White Clover | Trifolium repens |  |
Mat-forming weed indicating poor, slightly alkaline soil – its roots contribute nitrogen. | Use a weedkiller |
| Sheep’s Sorrel | Rumex acetosella |  |
Slender plant with wiry, creeping stems and green flowers that turn red. | Hand weeding is practical if one or two weeds are present but chemical control is usually necessary. |
| Annual meadow grass | Poa annua |  |
Tufted grass that spreads by seeding | Dig out plants by hand before they flower |
| Creeping buttercup | Ranunculus repens |  |
Runners creep along the surface and root at intervals – can be a serious nuisance if neglected. | Weedkiller is not reliable – you may have to dig this out by hand so catch it early. |
| Greater (Broad-leaved) plantain | Plantago major |  |
A solitary plant with a tap root which spreads by seed | Dig out at the roots by hand or use a spot weedkiller |
| Hoary Plantain (Lamb’s tongue) | Plantago media |  |
Similar to greater plantain but flower head is shorter and wider | Dig out at the roots by hand or use a spot weedkiller |
| Moss |  |
This indicates poor conditions especially on acid soils | Use moss killer in spring or autumn but it is likely to return if underlying cause is unresolved. | |
| Self-heal | Prunella vulgaris | Photo G6.3.2-17 | A mat forming weed – could be left in meadow grass | Use weedkiller |
| Slender speedwell | Veronica filiformis |  |
Mats of timy leaves | Scarify in autumn |
| Dandelion | Taraxacum officinale |  |
Yellow flowering weed | Use a spot weedkiller or dig out the tap root – deal with before they seed. |
| Yorkshire fog | Holcus lanatus |  |
A coarse leaved creeping grass | Slash repeatedly with a knife or dig out and reseed area. |
| Lesser yellow trefoil | Trifolium dubium |  |
An annual weed that is often quickly spread by mowing without a grass box | Use a lawn weedkiller |
| Field woodrush | Luzula campestris |  |
A clump-forming grass like plant which prefers acid soil. | Dig out by handapply lime in winter in the form of ground chalk. |
| Pearlwort | Sagina procumbens |  |
A creeping weed that forms low mats of grassy leaves. | Use a lawm weedkiller |
| Daisy | Bellis perennis |  |
A popular weed! | Leave the rosettes if you like a daisy spangled lawn. If not, dig out roots by hand. |
| Mind-your-own-business | Soleirolia soleirolli |  |
Forms mats of leaves thriving in damp sites | Rake it out – lawn weedkillers ineffective |
| Yarrow | A|chillea millefolium |  |
Mats of ferny leaves that thrive in dry soil | Dig out by hand or use lawn weedkiller. |
Some Common Lawn Problems
Lawns and Shade
Grass growing in light or dappled shade can thrive but the deep shade from trees is often too much for most lawn grasses as they becomes thin and moss is likely to develop.
You may be able to open up the tree canopy by selective pruning to let more light penetrate. And some shade tolerant seed mixes are available but they are fine grasses that do not cope well with heavy wear.
In extremely shaded areas it may be worth considering using alternative ground coverings in shady areas such as shade loving plants or a bark mulch.
Waterlogged Lawns
Poorly drained lawns are beset with problems as grass roots die through lack of oxygen. If water sits on your lawn after rain, it can point to a high water table or to poor drainage.
An impervious layer of compacted soil or ‘hardpan’ below the surface can result in poor drainage although i is possible to relieve the compaction by spiking if it is not too far below the surface.
If the problem lies deeper, more drastic and expensive action may be needed. Such as drainage ditches or a system of drainage pipes. You may decide to abandon the lawn altogether and grow plants that thrive in moist conditions.
Lawns on a clay soil can be problematic as summer roots can not penetrate the hard ground to get to moisture and winter wet leads to dead patches and moss growth. The lawn could be laid on a layer of course sand which will help the grass to root through the sand In the summer and extract moisture from the soil below the sand and in winter.
Worm casts
Earthworms leave small muddy mounds on the lawn in spring or autumn. These are unpleasant but not damaging and are nutrient-rich. The best solution is to brush them off into borders before mowing.
Fairy rings
Fungi living on matter like old tree roots make rings of lush grass – the grass dies out between them and toadstools appear. Generally, fungicides do not kill them and the best action is to remove the organic debris, feed, aerate and water the lawn.
Drought
In very dry conditions, yellowish, straw like patches may appear in your lawn or the whole lawn may be affected. Let the grass grow longer and leave clippings on the lawn to reduce evaporation. Water or wait for rain.
Scorch/yellow patches
Patches of various shapes and sizes may appear which could be due to fertilizer that was unevenly distributed or not watered in. Also, it could be a result of dog urine – if so, water immediately.
Snow mould
This fungus is common in late autumn and winter. It is a sign of poor aeration and too much nitrogen. Scarify and aerate the lawn and do not use spring lawn feeds in autumn.
Mole hill
Moles may pass through or come to stay and can create large mounds of soil in your lawn.. Ultrasonic devices or smoke in the tunnels may drive them away but trapping and releasing them elsewhere is more reliable.
Leveling humps and hollows
Hollows can fill with long grass while humps can be scalped by your lawnmower. Don’t try to roll as this will compact the soil – the best solution is to lift the turf in the problem area and adjust the soil level before relaying. This is best carried out between autumn and spring.
Summary
We have summarized below how you should care for your lawn throughout the year.
| Task | Spring | Summer | Autumn | Winter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mowing | Weekly | 1-3 times a week | 1-2 times a week | Occasionally if grass is growing |
| Feeding | Spring/summer lawn feed (high in nitrogen) | Spring/summer lawn feed in early summer if not given in spring | Autumn lawn feed (high in potassium) in early autumn | |
| Watering new lawns | In dry periods if needed | Weekly in dry periods | In dry periods if needed | |
| Scratching or scarifying | Where moss is not present | |||
| Aerating | Every 2-3 years after scarifying | |||
| Top-dressing | Immediately after aerating | |||
| Raking | To remove surface debris. Do no rake too vigorously as you will damage grass. | To remove surface debris | To remove fallen leaves | To remove fallen leaves |
| Moss control | Apply moss killer | Apply moss killer, scarify when the moss is dead. Improve drainage by aerating. | Use a soil testing kit to check soil ph – if it is acidic apply ground chalk or ground limestone | |
| Weed control | Apply lawn weedkiller if necessary or a weed and feed | Apply lawn weedkiller if necessary and not done in spring | Apply more lawn weedkiller if necessary in early autumn | Adjusting soil ph will also help with weed control |
| Repairs | Humps hollows and bare patcvhes | Humps hollows and bare patches | Humps hollows and bare patches | |
| Other Jobs | Overhaul mower and other garden tools |